[Cosmetics Correspondence Course]
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Chapter Four Excerpt - Product Knowledge Introduction This chapter takes the chemical knowledge of cosmetics and shows you how to apply it to the many different products you will be recommending to your customers. Knowing how these products are formulated will help you decide which products are appropriate for each customer and you will be able to make recommendations confidently and persuasively. Some of the information that you will find in the chapter includes: Cleansing Products The basic functions of cleansing products are to remove makeup, surface impurities and oils; and to cleanse the skin thoroughly and gently. Cleansing Milks Cleansing milks (cleansing lotions, emulsions), the most common form of cleanser in use today, remove makeup as well as oil, dirt and other impurities. They may have a slightly alkaline base in order to clean the skin properly and thoroughly. The customer should be provided with a follow-up toner with enough acidity to balance this, thereby keeping the skin at its natural pH. Most companies will provide formulations for the different skin types. Cleansing Gels A cleansing gel is either a gel or clear liquid formulation that is used in the same manner as soap. It will remove makeup as well as oil, dirt and other impurities. As such, it is best for normal to oily skin types and is ideal as a body cleanser or shaving lubricant for men or women. A toner should follow it. Toners A toner's function is to remove any oil, dirt, makeup and excess cleanser after the skin has been cleansed, and to restore the skin's natural pH balance. Some toners have ingredients that leave the skin feeling stimulated and refreshed. Alcohol in a toner is a cosmetic alcohol, and will not have any drying effect whatsoever. However, if no alcohol is present, there will be an alternative ingredient to perform the same task. The use of a toner will enable the skin to benefit more from any following treatment (usually a moisturizer). To maintain the proper pH balance, the customer should choose a cleanser and toner from the same brand since they are designed to work best together as they maintain the skin's pH level. The different types of toners are as follows. Fresheners are usually the weakest formulation and have little or no alcohol. They are formulated for very dry, dry, dry to normal, mature and sensitive skin types. Toners are usually a medium strength, with little alcohol (Sometimes no alcohol is used). They are formulated for dry, dry to normal, normal, mature and sensitive skin types. Astringents are usually the strongest formulation, with some alcohol (they usually contain alcohol). They are formulated for normal, normal to oily, oily and acne-prone skin types. Moisturizers Because our skin is affected by so many environmental changes (extremes in weather, pollution, central heating, air conditioning, etc.) we need to keep it moist and protected. All skin types need a moisturizer of one kind or another and the formulations available are numerous. Dehydration is the most common condition that requires the use of a moisturizer. Dehydration results from the evaporation of moisture from the skin's surface when the skin is exposed to chemicals (i.e. chlorine) or extremes in temperature, climate, sun and age. Moisturizers add moisture to the surface layers of the skin and leave a protective layer to seal in the moisture and prevent any further loss. Skin Enhancing Products Depending on their purpose, these products can work with the skin cells in the underlying layers of the epidermis, or possibly at an even deeper level. The main subject of debate is whether these products can penetrate deeply enough to make a difference on living skin cells. If the manufacturer claims that they do, then the product should be considered a drug and not a cosmetic. On the other hand, those products that treat dead or dying skin cells can work to enhance their elasticity, resilience and moisture content to lave the skin looking more radiant and feeling smoother and softer. Special Treatment Products Eye Treatments The eye area is the first to show signs of aging because the skin in this area is very thin and has few, if any, oil glands. Eye creams are available in many forms including gels, creams, oils, serums and stick formulations. The oilier and younger the skin in the eye area, the lighter the formulation should be. These creams are the only products which should be applied around the eyes since the use of richer moisturizers and night creams not meant for the area could result in swelling, irritation, watering, whiteheads and redness. Neck and Décolleté Creams The skin of the neck area and upper chest has poor muscle support that encourages the development of lines and loss of contour. Therefore, we show signs of aging here much faster than elsewhere. In addition, lack of good posture, weight loss, dieting and illness can all effect the elasticity of the skin. Using a neck cream aids this area by firming the tissues, softening the appearance of lines and improving the texture of the skin. Neck creamsshould be used at night and will often be formulated with a gel base to help make the skin appear slightly tighter and more toned.
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